If you enjoy RVs you already know, that's a big part of the fun with RVing getting away from everything. You can just pack their bags and head to the RV to get some well deserved rest and relaxation without having to live with the anger a lot of the day to day. This relaxing stay, memory make RV travel is not by something as simple as a 12-volt problem ruining your holiday will be called into question.
If you've been RVing for any amount of time you already know that a goodSome of the tools and equipment in your operation out of the RV 12-volt DC current. 12-volt DC or Direct Current is supplied electricity by the RV batteries. DC current flows in one direction, from negative to positive. 12-VDC power is in the RV batteries and supplies power to components, machinery and equipment are stored, that operate from 12-volts.
This 12-volt devices include overhead lights, the water pump, air fans, fan oven, hood fan, LP gas leakDetectors, stereos, 12-volt TV and the refrigerator when operating in the LPG mode. When you go camping you rely on these 12-volt products work properly, especially if you have dry camping without hook-ups. So what do you do if one of these 12-volt stop-work products?
For the sake of an example we say that we are dry camping and ended our 12-volt pump is operating.
I am convinced that someone is just for debugging a 12-VDC problem, and in a position tomany cases to correct the problem without ruining it for your camping holiday. To get started you will need a few simple tools to assist you in troubleshooting your RV's 12-volt system.
1). An inexpensive 12-volt test light.
2). A multi-meter which can test for DC.
Both are available at local auto parts. You should also not some duct tape, wire nuts of different sizes, 12-volt bulbs and 12-volt fuses on hand. Check the amperage ofuse of fuses in the power distribution box and keep an inventory. If you are aware of any inline fuses on each of the 12-volt appliances used to keep them on hand.
Now is the last time, try to determine the water pump actually worked. Do you have the RV for an extended period with the pump on? There is water in the fresh water holding tank? Were you working on or around something else that might be affected by the operation of the water pump? Try to think of all possible scenarios.There might be something jar your memory, so a quick solution to the problem.
If not, is the first step to verify that the coach battery or batteries enough to power this 12-volt supply items are taken into account. There are a number of ways leading to a rapid test for the coach batteries. You can use the monitor panel to check the condition of the car batteries. To ensure an accurate reading that the RV is not plugged into electricity and turn a couple of ceiling lightingPlace a small load on the battery. Check the reading displayed on the monitor. (If you enter the reading on the monitor panel, when the RV is connected to electricity, you will be fully charged reading) A more accurate method is to select the battery with a multi-meter test. Set the meter to 12 VDC reading and place the negative test probe to the negative terminal of the battery connected and the positive test probe on the positive battery terminal. A fully charged batteryRead in the range 12.6 to 12.7 volts. If it is less than 12-volts, it is placed under a 50% state of charge and must be charged.
If the battery is fully charged, the next step is to ensure that each battery disconnect switch turned on for the coach battery. When the battery switch is turned on, check to see if any other 12-volt appliances in the RV working properly. If it 12-volt power into the interior of the RV, you must check the boxBackup for the water pump in the power distribution center. Determine which fuse is for the water pump (fuses are generally labeled) and a suitable ground for the 12-volt test light. Test both sides of the fuse for 12-volt current. If the test light only shines on one side of the fuse, replace it with the correct size fuse and try again the water pump. If it was the power to check on both sides of the back-up for 12-volt water pump at the change to. If there is tension, and theSwitch is working properly check the water pump wiring for an inline fuse.
Find a good reason for the 12-volt test light and probe the wire on both sides of the fuse. If it only replace power on the one hand, the fuse it with the correct size fuse and test again the pump. If there is power on both sides of the fuse check the water pump wiring connections at the wire nuts. It is possible for connections to come loose because of excessive vibration. Correct any looseConnections and try again the pump. If the pump still does not feel the engine to see if it is hot to touch. When the engine is hot, a thermal circuit breaker was triggered. Let the pump time to cool off and see if it re-sets itself.
If you are finished all these tests and there are 12-volt DC to the engine water pump, and it still does not come, chances are the water pump is bad, and it will need to be replaced.
Troubleshooting a 12-volt --Problem in your RV is not so difficult. Follow the logical path of the device that you can see the troubleshooting and if you can find out where the problem lies. It might be possible to save to your well-deserved vacation, a bit of money and a trip to the RV dealer.
Note: If you do not feel comfortable carrying out your own maintenance, or troubleshooting the 12-volt electrical system, take your RV to a reputable repair center to have it checked out and repaired
HappyCamping!
Copyright 2006 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV 101 Education
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